Newsletter

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The staff at Randolph Animal Hospital is pleased to announce the latest edition of their "Online Newsletter." This fun and fact-filled Newsletter is updated on a regular basis by the veterinarians and staff at Randolph Animal Hospital.

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Current Newsletter Topics

February is National Pet Dental Health Month

Dental care is vital to your pet's health! If you've already established a dental care program for your pet, you're off to a great start. But if your pet hasn't received a dental exam from your veterinarian, it's time to get started. February is National Pet Dental Health Month, the perfect time to schedule a dental exam for your pet and develop a home care regimen for your best friend.

Why is dental care so important for your pet? Periodontal disease is the number one diagnosed problem in pets - by the age of two, more than 80 percent of dogs and 70 percent of cats have periodontal disease in one form or another. The buildup of plaque and tartar on your pet's teeth leads to bacterial infections that can enter the bloodstream and infect other parts of your pet's body. Periodontal disease has been linked to heart attacks, strokes, kidney disease, osteoporosis and other problems.

A Pet's Teeth Before and After a Dental Cleaning

The good news is that periodontal disease is easily prevented. Routine dental cleanings and a home dental care regimen can eliminate the plaque and tartar that lead to gum disease and oral infections. During a dental cleaning, your veterinarian also performs a complete oral examination of your pet. This includes screening for oral cancer, broken teeth and cavities. Spotting these problems early on makes them easier to treat and improves your pet's overall oral health.

Your pet's dental cleaning is more involved than the same process you go through at the dentist's office. Anesthesia is required to keep your pet still and comfortable during the procedure. Because of this, your pet undergoes a thorough physical examination before each dental cleaning. Laboratory blood tests, as well as other diagnostic procedures are also used to screen for potential problems and risks before anesthesia is administered. Using these results, we develop a safe anesthetic protocol specifically for your pet.

During a dental cleaning, tartar is removed from your pet's teeth with a hand scaler. Next, a periodontal probe is used to check for pockets under the gumline - where periodontal disease and bad breath start. An ultrasonic scaler is used to clean above the gumline and a curette is used to clean and smooth the teeth under the gumline and in the crevices. Finally, the teeth are polished and an anti-bacterial solution is used to help delay future tartar build-up.

Dental care doesn't end in your veterinarian's office. Brushing your pet's teeth at home is an added level of protection against gum disease. In order to be most effective, brushing must be done at least three times a week; however, daily brushing is ideal. Brushing your pet's teeth can be supplemented with antiseptic rinses. Some pet foods and treats are also effective in preventing plaque and tartar buildup. However, there is no substitute for regular brushing and professional dental cleanings.

Contact us today to schedule a dental examination and cleaning for your pet. Your best friend will thank you!

Crate Training Your Puppy

Just like a new parent needs a crib or playpen for a new baby, a new dog owner should provide a crate for his or her new pup. Crates are a place your puppy can call his own - a place they can go and retreat when they want or need space, and a haven for you to place them in for their own safety. Crates are an indispensable aid in house training and dealing with misbehavior. A crate can help calm anxious or hyperactive pups and help prevent a puppy from chewing and destroying your house and possibly hurting himself while you are away. In addition, a crate is a convenient method of carrying your pet when you travel.

Choosing a Crate

Both solid plastic airline and wire mesh crates are available. If you travel extensively, the foldable wire mesh crates are preferable. When purchasing a crate, make sure there is enough room for your pup to stand up and move around.

Introducing the Crate

If you introduce the crate when the pup is young, he should readily adjust to it. Puppies love people, so put the crate in an area where you and your family spend time. The kitchen, den or family room are general the best places. Crates need to be perceived as a fun place where your pup wants to be. If the crate is placed in an isolated area, your pup may cry and revolt.

A rule of thumb for how many hours your pup can be confined is the number of months they are old plus one; i.e., a three-month-old pup should not be crated more than four hours. Each pup has its own individual preferences and differences. Most pups can hold their needs by four months of age if they’re on a feeding and watering schedule.

Initially try and introduce the crate early in the day on a weekend and keep the door open. This allows him to investigate the area. Throw some treats in the crate, play fetch the ball in the crate, store his toys in there and let him go in and out at his own leisure. Feed him in the crate, leaving the door open. If he initially hesitates - put the bowl near the crate door so he can reach in and get to it.

Closing the Door

It is important to schedule crating after your pup has had a good amount of exercise and has eliminated. Put your pup in there when he is tired and give him a treat and a toy, then praise him and shut the door. Provide him with a toy or bone that he can chew. (If necessary, this bone or toy can amuse him for several hours.) As soon as this is done, leave the room for a few minutes. He may complain, but give him a few minutes. NEVER reward his cries by letting him out (he will learn to continue crying if you do so). Once his crying has stopped - let him out.

Do not put papers in the cage. This may encourage him to go to the bathroom there. If your pup messes on blankets in the crate, do not put any inside the crate.

The Noisy Pup

Some pups will cry continuously for 15 minutes or more. If crying continues, a light correction may be needed. You can try to sneak up on the pup (without him seeing you) and tap the wall. This sudden noise may quiet him. You may need to repeat this several times. Another recommendation is to try a squirt from a water gun or shake a soda can full of coins. Do not speak; you do not want the pup to associate the punishment with you. If all else fails, anti-barking devises such as a citronella spray collar may be needed. This is quite effective and a humane method to control barking.

Separation Anxiety

What is the cause of this obsessive behavior?

Dogs are pack animals and need a social structure. They rely on other dogs (or humans) for interaction. They need to be socialized and need to understand what is expected of them. Many of them have been mistreated in the past and have been locked up alone for long periods of time. Some of them have been abandoned and have ended up in animal shelters.

Destructive Dog

Destructive Behavior Due to Separation Anxiety

Dogs need socialization.

Since our pets are usually not socialized in a pack, it is our responsibility to see that the job gets done. Obedience training is the best method for socializing a dog. Both the dog and the owner learn what is expected of each other. If obedience training is begun at an early age, the dog will learn how to interact with both humans and other dogs. They will not have this insecurity that "separation anxiety" dogs seem to display.

How do you treat this condition?

First of all, establish yourself as the leader! In order to learn this, both of you will probably need to enroll in a dog obedience class. This will also help your dog in the socialization game. He may misbehave during the first few classes, but before you know it, he'll be the star pupil. How does this affect the dog's destructive behavior when you leave him alone? Since you are the leader of the pack, the dog accepts the idea that you are leaving. He does not question your authority!

In the beginning, confine your dog to a crate when you are away. This has two advantages. The first is that your dog does not have the opportunity to destroy your house. The second is that your dog actually feels comfortable and secure in the crate. The crate must be large enough for your dog to turn around and stand up.

When you leave, turn on a radio. A talk show is the best type of program. A tape recording of your voice is even better. The radio or the tape recorder should be placed in the bedroom with the door closed (any room as long as the dog cannot enter). Since most destructive behavior occurs during the first hour, you only need a voice recording that lasts slightly more than an hour.

Make plans for Fido when you are not home.

Plan your departures.Before leaving your residence, give your dog a treat. A chewy bone packed with his favorite treat works very well. This should distract your dog long enough for you to leave. Leave quickly and quietly! Do not say goodbye! When you return, give him another treat. By doing this, coming and going are not so traumatic.

Practice your departures.As mentioned earlier, the most difficult time for your dog is the first hour that he is left alone. Practice leaving and entering. Take your dog out of his crate, put your coat on, and then walk out the door. Return immediately. Greet your dog calmly or don't greet him at all. If he is excited, completely ignore him. Repeat the same exercise; however, this time stay out longer. Continue with this exercise until you are comfortable leaving him alone for an entire hour. This may take several weeks to perfect.

Anxiety

Your dog must have regular, planned exercise. This exercise relieves stress and tension. Just like feeding time, your dog needs a specific time for exercise. Dogs like routine. Feed and exercise your dog at the same times every day. They are creatures of habit.

Curing "separation anxiety" is very difficult. It is definitely one of the most challenging behavior problems in dogs. Enrolling in a good obedience-training course is the first step to take.

Letting the Cat Out...Or Not

Thanks to the creation and marketing of cat litter in the mid 1940's, more and more cats have become indoor-only pets. As such, cats are now leading longer lives, with some living 20+ years! Our homes offer a safer, healthier environment than life on the street. The average life span of an indoor cat is 10 years, whereas the average lifespan of an outdoor cat is just 2 years. There is no doubt that indoors is safer.

They like to be outside, but the risks can be great.

Yet, when we choose to make our cats indoors-only companions, we have a responsibility to provide the stimulation that was previously provided by the great outdoors. Scratching and climbing posts become trees; interactive toys become hunted birds, bugs and field mice. A rotating array of cat playthings provides excitement, unpredictability and exercise which, in turn, gives your cat everything it needs while extending its life inside. With that said, many cat lovers still prefer to commune with nature with their feline friends. Fortunately, there are several ways to minimize the risks.

Most importantly, while vaccinations are important for indoor cats, they are absolutely critical to the health of outdoor cats. The threat of rabies, FeLV, FIV, and FIP, transmitted through altercations with wildlife, or interaction with stray, un-vaccinated cats, should be enough to have your cat immunized in order to give you peace of mind. All of these diseases can be prevented and can provide your outdoor cat with proper protection should he need it.

If you feel as though your cat deserves the fun of being outside, but want to provide a safe way to experience nature, there are alternatives to opening the door and watching him go. Harnesses and leashes (gasp!) have been developed for cats. Either cat specific or small dog accessories fit well and are relatively inexpensive. Training your cat to walk with the harness takes patience (unless you start with a kitten, in which case it could take less time), but the reward is worth it. Your cat will be able to experience the joys of being outside in a controlled environment. How far he can travel is up to you!

It may seem silly, but it's a good idea!

Outdoor enclosures are another great alternative. Since outdoor enclosures are usually homemade, they come in all shapes and sizes. For durability, chicken wire or wire hardware cloth - secured around a simple wood frame - is preferable to ordinary window screening. The most successful structures usually feature climbing and resting furniture inside. A shaded area is necessary for warm or hot weather. Whether you choose an outdoor enclosure or add cat-proof netting to the top of traditional fencing, they are safest used only when you are at home able to check on them often.

Even with the option of training or providing your cat with an enclosed outdoor adventure area, you still need to consider identification. Lost cats result in heartache that can easily be avoided. Microchip and ID tags provide easy identification and may be what reunites you with your cat should he / she get lost or scooped up by a caring, but ignorant stranger.

When deciding whether or not to let your cat outdoors, it is important for you to consider the alternatives. As the pet industry expands and becomes more creative, more and more indoor/outdoor products are going to become available. Of course, there is nothing better than being outside. If you can provide your cat with the proper care and protection, allowing your cat to go outdoors can be a fun and healthy existence.

Ear Scratching And Head Shaking

Normal ears of dogs and cats have a relatively smooth inner lining with a minimal amount of wax buildup. Any one of several problems can cause the ear canal to become filled with odoriferous debris. Your pet will probably tell you its ears are uncomfortable by excessive scratching and head shaking. Early treatment of ear problems is important to prevent complications such as damage to the inner ear, long-term infections, and hearing loss.

Ear mites (Otodectes) are a common cause of ear irritation and frequent ear scratching in cats. Ears infected with mites are often filled with dark brown, flaky debris. The mites can sometimes be seen when the debris is examined under a microscope.

Magnified Ear Mite

Magnified Ear Mite

Cat with Ear Mites

Cat Ear With Mites

Allergies are a common cause of ear irritation in dogs. Allergies can be caused by pollens, molds, plants, fleas, and a variety of other substances. In addition to scratching their ears, dogs with allergies often lick their feet and rub their face.

Trauma to the ear from foreign objects, such as plant seeds or burrs, or from aggressive cleaning with cotton-tipped applicators can also cause pain and inflammation to a pet's ears.

Any of these conditions, if left untreated, can lead to additional and more complicated problems, such as yeast or bacterial infections. These organisms grow best in warm, humid ears that have little air flow. Thus, breeds that have very long or very narrow ear canals, dogs with heavy drooping ears (e.g., cockers), animals that enjoy swimming, and those that live in hot, humid environments will be predisposed to ear infections.

Yeast (Malassezia pachydermatitis), in small amounts, is a normal inhabitant of the ear canal. Inflammation of the ear, from any of the above conditions, allows the yeast to grow in excessive numbers. Yeast-infected ears have a smelly waxy buildup.

Bacterial infections can result in smelly pus-like drainage from the ear and can be extremely painful.

Your veterinarian can examine your pet's ear canals; test a sample of the discharge for bacteria, yeast, or mites and choose the most effective course of treatment. Along with choosing the most effective medication, the treatment must be administered correctly. Your veterinarian can show you the proper way to clean and medicate your pet's ears.

To prevent ear problems, keep your pet's ears clean and dry. It is more important to check your pet's ears regularly for dirt and discharge than it is to clean them. Look in your pet's ears once a week or whenever you are petting him or her. If the ears need cleaning, use only products and methods recommended by your veterinarian. Never clean the ears with a cotton-tipped applicator any deeper than you can see. Pushing the applicator too far down can cause serious internal damage. Finally, if your pet's ears require frequent cleaning, see your veterinarian and treat the cause before complications develop.

For more information on proper ear care, please call our hospital.

Urine Exam

You can learn a lot about the health of your pet from his or her urine. This smelly yellow liquid provides a variety of clues that can help your veterinarian solve the mystery of your pet's health.

Like people, pets should have yellow urine that has a characteristic odor. Most pets develop a pattern and urinate with the same frequency each day.

Changes in frequency of urination, blood in the urine and pain during urination are common signs of infection and/or irritation. Most pet owners are very good at noticing these signs.

Your pet's urine can be collected at home or in the veterinary hospital. The 'free catch' method for collecting urine can be done at home. When walking your dog, slip a plastic bowl or container under his leg when he stops to urinate. To speed up the process, you can feed your dog several ice cubes before leaving for the walk. Free catch does not require intensive labor, money, or time, nor does it upset your pet. There are some disadvantages to the free catch method. The free catch method does not provide sterile urine and may be contaminated by bacteria from the environment. If the urine is not transported immediately to the hospital, some of the tests may yield inaccurate results.

Urine Collection Vial

Urine Collection Vial

Your veterinarian or a veterinary technician can obtain a fresh urine sample from your pet by catheterizing the bladder. This collection procedure requires the animal's cooperation and often requires sedation.

Once the urine is obtained, the first thing examined is the sediment. Sediment refers to the cells floating in the urine. An increased number of white blood cells signals inflammation and helps with the diagnosis of a bladder infection. With bladder infections, large numbers of bacteria may also be present.

Canine Urine Sediment

Urine Sediment of a Dog.
White Blood Cells and Bacteria are Shown

Due to the long length of the urethra, female dogs are more prone to urinary tract infections than male dogs. Diabetic animals have an increased amount of glucose in the urine, which may promote bacterial growth and cause infection.

Animals can form bladder stones due to a genetic condition, if urine flow is decreased or if the bladder wall is irritated. Stones can sometimes be seen on x-rays and they can often be located during ultrasound examination. Surgery is usually required to remove large bladder stones.

Bladder Stones

X-Ray Showing 2 Bladder Stones

Examination of the urine is also important for diagnosing kidney disease. The specific gravity (of the urine) compares the weight of urine to the weight of water, detecting functional problems with the kidneys. The specific gravity indicates how well the animal is concentrating its urine. If the specific gravity is low (approaching that of water), the kidneys may not be eliminating the body's waste products properly into the urine. Instead of eliminating the waste products into the urine, they accumulate in the blood stream and cause problems.

Various minerals can solidify in urine to form casts and crystals. The presence of calcium oxalate crystals, for example, can be found as a result of ethylene glycol (antifreeze) toxicity. Ammonium biurate crystals are red flags for liver disease. The most commonly found crystals are triple phosphate (magnesium ammonium phosphate) and can signify a bladder infection.

Urinary Cast

Various Urinary crystals (A) Calcium Oxalate Crystals (B) Uric Acid Crystals
(C) Triple Phosphate Crystals with Amorphous Phosphates (D) Cystine Crystals

The kidney is composed of a series of tubules that aid in making urine. Substances are either absorbed back into the body or excreted in the tubules as urine. If casts are found in the urine, this may indicate a problem with the tubules in the kidney. Casts are solid clumps of protein cells or red and white blood cells. These cells collect in the tubules and are shed sporadically. These casts have a tube-like shape and can be seen under a microscope.

Urinary Cast

Large Granular Urinary Cast

Urinary Cast

Red Cell Granular Cast and Numerous Erythrocytes.
Early Stages of Acute Kidney Disease

Urine is so much more than a waste product. Your pet's urine test means a lot for his or her health. It provides many interesting diagnostic clues that help determine what's going on inside your pet!

Video - Pudgy Pets Pose Problem For Vets

With warmer weather approaching, plenty of pet owners are thinking of getting into shape before hitting the beach. But what about pets? Obesity is a growing problem among both cats and dogs. And much like humans, too many extra pounds can have far-reaching consequences for our animal companions. In this report from the Veterinary News Network, Dr. Jim Humphries discusses the health problems that can occur if your pet is overweight and shares tips on how you can get your pet's weight under control.

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